Friday, September 23, 2016

Know Before You Go: Greenland

The world’s largest island may be the most overlooked destination in North America. Peeking down at the ice cap during so many transatlantic flights piqued my own curiosity and led to my first visit in late summer. I fell in love with the never ending mountains and gargantuan fjords, the rare purity of sea and sky, and the unfiltered Inuit culture, alive and flourishing in the 21st century.

I returned in deepest winter and found a shimmering world of white, where polar bears roam the horizon and nighttime glows with auroras. Still considered terra incognita by mainstream tourists, Greenland thrills adventure seekers who like laying first tracks in the snow. Here is what you need to know:

Pack: Dress warmly and stay dry, which means bring solid base layers, something woolly, and an outer shell to resist wind and water. Heavy insulated boots are a must, along with gloves, hats, and scarves. In summer, hope for the best but pack for the worst (think cold, wet, and windy), and don’t forget sunglasses and sunblock.

Sleep: Inuit hospitality and Scandinavian customs mean cozy, comfortable hotels. A parade of icebergs flows past the panoramic decks of Hotel Arctic, overlooking Ilulissat’s famous ice fjord (book a private igloo for intimate skylight views of the northern lights). Hotel Sisimiut makes a great base for year-round adventure activities, while Hotel Angmagssalik sets you right at the edge of the eternal ice sheet. For longer stays, check out Greenland’s spotless and affordable youth hostels.

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Eat: Fresh seafood and wild game set Greenland’s unique culinary scene. Must-tries are reindeer, musk ox, snow crab, and halibut. Whale meat (and blubber) are still common, along with tender native lamb dressed with arctic herbs. Get a taste for Greenland’s home-baked tradition at a kaffemik, where friends gather in a home for a smorgasbord of cakes and rich coffee.

Explore: Greenland favors supersize outdoor adventures such as dogsledding on ice and multiday kayak trips. Strap on snowshoes, straddle a snowmobile, or hop into a helicopter to gaze at the natural grandeur. Hunting, fishing, and camping trips are popular—organized hikes tend to focus on the southern and western coasts. For even greater isolation, visit the colossal coastline of East Greenland—an ideal spot for expedition cruising and glimpsing polar bears.

Buy: Greenlandic crafts reflect the beauty of Inuit design and life in the Arctic. Woolen fashion, bone jewelry, and local gold make one-of-a-kind keepsakes. Hand-knit beaded wrist warmers are popular, while carved tupilaq showcase ancient folklore. (Note that reindeer bone is legal for export, but only certain species of whale bone are and they must be accompanied by a CITES certificate.)

Ski: Cross-country or backcountry, Greenland has more snow and terrain than you can ski in a lifetime. Hut-to-hut tours offer a cozy refuge for the casual skier, while more intense adventurers can attempt a full transit across the ice sheet. Heli-skiing drops extreme skiers onto some of the remotest, fairy-tale peaks for that unmistakable rush of flying down virgin slopes.



overlook 鸟瞰,忽视
peek 偷看,一瞥
transatlantic 横断大西洋的
pique 是愤怒,使好奇
gargantuan 巨大的
fjord 峡湾
unfiltered 未过滤的
Inuit 因纽特
shimmer 闪闪发光
glow 燃烧,脸红
aurora 极光
terra incognita 未知领域
thrill 使激动
sunblock 防晒霜
cozy 舒适的
iceberg 冰山
panoramic 全景的
igloo 雪块砌成的圆顶小屋
intimate 亲密的,私人的
eternal 永久的
spotless 洁白的,无垢的
culinary 厨房的,料理的
halibut 大比目鱼
blubber 鲸油;哭诉
smorgasbord 自助餐
strap 用皮带捆
straddle 跨坐
grandeur 雄伟
colossal 巨大的
glimpse 瞥见
beaded 珠状的
showcase 玻璃柜台
folklore 民俗
remotest 遥远的

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