Lake Skadar, Montenegro (15)

2013 Best Summer Trip #15

Skadar is the biggest lake in the Balkans at 150 square miles and, perhaps, its best kept secret destination. Ringed by medieval villages and hillside vineyards, the Montenegro portion (a third of the lake is in Albania) is a national park that's home to nearly 280 bird species (including the massive Dalmatian pelican), island monasteries and fortresses, icy waterfalls, and wild rivers.

When to Go: July-September

How to Get Around: Lake Skadar is an easy drive from the international airports at Podgorica (less than 30 minutes) and Tivat (less than 90 minutes). Public transportation is available to the main lake town, Virpazar, but not around the lake, so rent a car or join a small group tour. Responsible Travel and Undiscovered Montenegro offer itineraries that include kayaking, hiking, birding, boating, and monastery and wine tasting tours. For hikes and other activities at Lake Skadar National Park, start at the Skadar Lake Visitor Center.

Where to Stay: Captivated by the Lake Skadar Valley's unspoiled wilderness, British expats and outdoor sports enthusiasts Ben and Emma Heywood restored a stone, hillside villa in 2008 to share their discovery with adventurous guests. The couple's luxurious, four-room Villa Miela overlooks the lake within the national park. Book day trips (kayaking, wine tasting, hiking) with English-speaking guides through the Heywoods' Lake Skadar Travel & Tours. Return to the villa before sunset to soak in the plunge pool or lounge on the outdoor terrace.

Where to Eat or Drink: Located lakeside, Konoba Badanj offers traditional dishes (smoked and marinated carp and eel, šopska salad, grilled meats and vegetables) in one of Virpazar's old stone buildings. Ask the English-speaking servers for daily menu recommendations. The neighboring Silistria Boat Restaurant—built to resemble an Ottoman boat—is worth a visit for its fish platter and deck views.

Cultural Tip: Since English is rarely spoken outside of restaurants in Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevića, learn a few words of Montenegrin in advance. Locals are extremely friendly to all, but they extend an extra-warm welcome to those who attempt a phrase or two. (You'll likely be rewarded with smiles and, maybe, an invitation to raise a potent glass of rakija.) Also, dress respectfully (long pants for men, covered knees and shoulders for women) outside beach areas, particularly when visiting monasteries or ethnic Muslim villages along the lake's Albanian shores.

What to Buy: Visit Virpazar's Friday morning farmers and fishermens market to shop for Crmnica Vranac (red wine); organic honey; local produce and cheeses; and wild figs, plums, walnuts, and pomegranates.

Helpful Links: Lake Skadar National Park; Lake Skadar Travel & Tours

Fun Fact: Of the many small islands in Lake Skadar, the most intriguing is Grmozur. The site of a prison built by Nikola I (Montenegro's only king, who reigned until 1918), the island is now a protected haven for reptiles and birds—and off limits to human visitors. Legend has it that to prevent escapes, only prisoners (and guards) who couldn't swim were sent to the "Alcatraz of Montenegro."


Montenegro - 黑山/蒙特内哥罗
Podgorica - 首都  波德戈里察
Lake Skadar - 斯库台湖，巴尔干半岛最大的湖泊，位于黑山与阿尔巴尼亚交界处。
Dalmatian - 南斯拉夫达尔马提亚地方的
pelican - 鹈鹕
monastery - （男子）修道院
kayaking - 划皮艇
captivate - 诱惑
unspoiled - 未损坏的，原风景的
expat = expatriate - 侨民，移居国外者
enthusiast - 狂热者
plunge - 跳水
marinate - 腌渍
carp - 鲤鱼
eel - 鳗鱼
grill - 在网上烤
platter - 大盘
a phrase or two - 只言片语
ethnic - 民族的
fig - 无花果
walnut - 核桃
pomegranate - 石榴
intriguing - 有趣的
reign - 统治
haven - 避难所，港口
reptile - 爬行动物
off limits - 禁止入内
Alcatraz - 阿尔卡特拉斯岛，俗称恶魔岛。位于加州旧金山湾，曾为监狱。